September 24, 2015

Climbing Report of an unclimbed peak in Turgen Massive Uvs Aimag, Mongolia.


By Chu, Tsan Lun (Alain),  Hong Kong.

Background.
After summiting Kharkhiraa II in 2012, I spotted a beautiful and remote peak in northern side of Kharkhiraa massive. I determined to climb this peak in 2015. After a thorough research on Google satellite map, and a detailed discussion with Batbayar. A, Aldarkhishig. S from Mongolia Expeditions and our climbing guide Gangaamaa Badamgarav, I launched an expedition in 2015 to explore the remote valley and this new peak. I recruited three Hong Kong climbers and planed to climb Kharkhiraa II first before heading to this unexplored valley.
We started the trek on June 22, 2015 from Olon Nuur with supplies carried by camels. After summiting Kharkhiraa II on June 24, 2015, we moved our base camp to the northern valley after a rest day. 


Road to Five lakes valley
After descending the Kharkhiraa Pass, we were heading north to enter a beautiful valley with five moraine lakes.

Basecamp.
After entering the valley on June 26, 2015, we established the base camp (2,920m) on a beautiful meadow besides a moraine lake. The prominent snowy peak in the north is the unclimbed peak.
High camp
We first established a high camp on the glacier (3,340m) on June 28, 2015. We encountered a steep moraine ridge before reaching the glacier.




Summit attempt
We were setting off for the summit on June 29, 2015 at 4:00am. After crossing several crevasses, we started climbing a steep ice wall at 7:00 am.
 The first section of the glacier was relatively flat with several medium size crevasses.

 The steepest section of this ice wall was estimated to be 250 meter high.

 After passing the summit rock band, we reached the summit ridge at 10:30am. The summit was behind the small cornice.


We approached the summit rock band at 9:30am.
Finally we reached the summit of this previously unclimbed peak at 10:40am on June 29, 2015. The estimated altitude from satellite map is 3,940m and the GPS readings are   / 49°41'31.8"N  91°23'56.6"E/. We would like to name this peak as “Gangaa Peak” in order to praise the help of our guide Gangaamaa Badamgarav and her achievements in mountaineering. 


Trip Organizer: Mongolia Expeditions
Sincerely thanks Mr. Batbayar. A & Mr. Aldarkhishig. S

4 сэтгэгдэл:

Увс нутгийн гайхамшиг оргилууд said...

Сайхан авиралт болсон байна

Momo said...

49041’30.9366” N 91023’55.9320” E is invalid coordinate. Please covert to standard.

mandy said...

It should be 49 degree, and 91 degree respectively, the (0) in 490 and 910 should be in superscript. It was changed due to difference in format while copying in computer. Alain Chu

Aldra Sukhee said...

Coordinate; 49°41'31.8"N 91°23'56.6"E

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